On Tso Moriri Lake

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Later we know more, we understand more, we may even come to love more; but the first vision of a young man’s love is surpassed by no further splendour, and the first glory of a mountain view never comes again. —Martin Conway

Kumaun

I first went to Kumaun in 1968, when I climbed my first peak, Ikualari on the Milam glacier. Since then I have returned to the region several times.

The centre piece of Kumaun, and indeed of the entire Indian Himalaya, is the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is closed to all visitors for a few decades, to allow it to regenerate. Nanda Devi, in a way, was an abused mountain, even with its stature as a Goddess. It has suffered devastation of its forest and environs, a nuclear related tragedy, being caught in international intrigue and finally barred to all devotees who may wish to reach its foot.

Nanda Devi

What I have enjoyed most is some small but rewarding treks in this area. Uttarakhand has well developed roads, which leads you far inside. This allows for a short trip to be most fruitful. If you have a few days to spare, then make a rush to lower valleys of Uttarakhand. You will enjoy and I promise, you will hear bagpipes playing. As we did once as a retired army musician walked with us with bagpipes!

Besides the famous names included here, are those of my Kumauni friends. Hailing from the narrow Saryu valley and village Harkot, Harsinh and company. have been my companions for many years—pampering me at camps but rising to highest degree of climbing and devotion when the need arose. I will always consider the Saryu as the ‘Valley of Friends’.

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