Crossing a Glacier
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EASTERN KARAKORAM: A HISTORICAL REVIEW
1996
THE EARLY EXPLORERS knew no boundaries except those of mountain ranges. The present day mountaineers and explorers have to be confined by political boundaries and territorial regulations. It is significant, hence, that only since 1984 all the ranges of the Eastern Karakoram are now opened to climbers by the Indian Government. While planning for the Siachen Indo-British Expedition, 1985 to the Terong valley, initially one felt that the area is not frequented, remote, information scarce and approach difficult. However, upon a little research it was found that more than forty parties had visited the area. The information and various references were scattered over a large number of books and journals. It is intended, in the present article to gather all this information, not exhaustively, but substantially. Eastern Karakoram has many opportunities for climbing and exploration and it is bound to receive many mountaineering parties in the future. In the early days, caravans from Srinagar to the Siachen snout took nearly fifty days and now it would be a five day journey!
The Eastern Karakoram consists of (a) the Siachen Muztagh, (b) the Rimo Muztagh and (c) the Saser Muztagh as a sub-group of the Great Karakoram.1 All these groups consist of various subgroups and peaks as classified in the Karakoram Conference report of 1936. Out of these the Siachen Muztagh was explored thoroughly, while the Rimo Muztagh and Saser Muztagh received a few parties.
The Siachen Muztagh
The peaks surrounding the Siachen glacier basically form this group. In 1821, W. Moorcroft passed near its snout and first acknowledged its existence.2 In 1835 G.T. Vigne approached it from the west trying to reach the Bilafond la, but he never guessed the existence of such a large glacier across the divide.3 In 1848 Henry Strachey was the first to discover the existence of the ‘Saichar’ glacier and ascended it for two miles from the snout in the Nubra valley.4 In the same year, Dr. Thomas Thompson5 also reached the glacier followed by F. Drew in 1849-50.6 E.C. Ryall of the Survey of India sketched the lower part in 1861. But he ascribed to it a length of only sixteen miles. During his famous second Karakoram journey in 1889, Sir Francis Younghusband approached over the Urdok valley to reach Turkestan la. Looking down to the Siachen from the north he felt that this was the main axis of the Karakoram.7 This was finally confirmed by Dr. T.G. Longstaff in 1909.8 In fact, it was Dr. Longstaff with Dr. Arthur Neve and Lt Slingsby who were the first real explorers to traverse this great glacier. First, they came over the Bilafond la (or, Saltoro pass, as Dr. Longstaff would have preferred to call it) and named the opposite glacier as ‘Teram Shehr’ and peaks as Teram Kangri, after a Yarkandi legend. After retreating to Nubra valley, Dr. Longstaff came up the Siachen snout from the south and saw the same peaks as identified from Bilafond la. Thus, he conclusively proved the length of Siachen glacier and the actual location of the Turkestan la. This was an important discovery as it now established the true boundaries of the Karakoram. He wrote:
Younghusband was a true prophet. Col Burrand of the Survey had suspected the truth. The avalanche-swept pass, whose foot Younghusband had reached 20 years before, was on the main axis of the Karakoram range which thus lay miles farther north than had been believed. We had stolen some 500 sq miles
from the Yarkand river systems of Chinese Turkestan, and joined it to the waters of the Indus and the Kingdom of Kashmir.
The next most important explorers were the famous Workman expedition in 1911-12. They entered over the Bilafond la and camped on the glacier with a large entourage of porters and two Alpine guides. They visited and named Indira Col, after Goddess Laxmi. In a month long survey they climbed many peaks and visited almost all corners of the upper Siachen.
Grant Peterkin was a surveyor attached to this expedition. He surveyed the glacier thoroughly and named a few peaks, particularly Apsarasas and Ghent.
In 1929 Dr. Ph.C. Visser of the Netherlands was on his fourth trip to the Karakoram.9 They discovered the two Terong glaciers and the Shelkar Chorten glacier which were unknown till then. Dr. Rudolf Wyss and surveyor Khan Sahib Afraz Gul stayed in the Terong valley and mapped the area. Thus they completed surveying the lower part of this great glacier.
At the same time, in 1929, the Duke of Spoleto expedition (Italian) crossed the Karakoram by Muztagh pass and reached Indira col from north. They descended from Turkestan la after discovering Staghar and Singhi glaciers. In 1930 Professor Giotto Dainelli completed the survey and exploration of this area. Coming over from the south he established himself at the Teram Shehr junction in early June; ‘. . . . thus reaching the Siachen tongue with all my baggage, a caravan of seventy coolies and six and a half tons of food for the men, carried by an additional caravan of ponies and supplementary coolies. On the 9th of June—exactly two months after my departure from Florence—I was heading for my first depot up the glacier. I hope my English colleagues will appreciate this rapidity of execution, which I consider a record!’10 Compare this with the present timings! Dainelli, with his only companion Miss Kalau, stayed at the Teram Shehr junction and carried out various geological surveys. Due to the flooding of Nubra, he could not return by the same route and hence crossed a 6200 m pass to Rimo glaciers in the east. He named this Italy Col (Col Italia). With this, the survey and exploration of the Siachen in most major respects was over. It was now left to climbers to attempt the various high peaks in this area. These climbing activities are tabulated at the end of this article.
All these recent expeditions arrived at the Siachen glacier from the west over Bilafond la or Sia la. In 1978-80 and 1981 Indian Army teams entered the glacier from the Nubra valley in the south and made excellent ascents. In 1984 a Japanese team approaching Rimo from the west over Bilafond la was turned back. India had firmly taken control over the area stopping all accesses from the west and north. From 1985 this area is selectively open for climbers approaching from Leh and Nubra.
The Rimo Muztagh
The Rimo glacier which is the main source of the Shyok has received very few visitors or climbers. Its end had been only roughly sketched by Johnson in 1864 and Robert Shaw in 1869. Sir Filippo De Filippi expedition of 1914 explored this great glacier and its feeders, thereby connecting with the Peterkin survey of 1912. Next in line was the Indian Army Engineers’ expedition, after 70 years, in 1984 which climbed Rimo IV. The Siachen Indo-British Expedition of 1985 crossed over from the Terong valley to climb Rimo III. They narrowly failed on Rimo I. The Terong group (North and South Terong glaciers) and the Shelkar Chorten glacier were also thoroughly explored by this expedition (55 years after Vissers). In all eight peaks were climbed and various passes and cols reached linking the Siachen/Terong to Rimo/Shyok valleys. They approached from Siachen glacier thus linking both Muztaghs.
Mamostong Kangri was first explored at close range by Dr. A. Neve and was surveyed by De Filippi’s expedition. This peak was ascended by an Indo-Japanese expedition in 1984 approaching from the south over the Mamostong and Thangman glaciers.
The Saser Muztagh
Saser Kangri area was first recceed by Arthur Neve in 1899. In 1909 and 1922, the Longstaff and Visser expeditions recceed it respectively. The main recce was carried out by J.O.M. Roberts in 1946. He recceed all the peaks of Saser and surrounding areas. In 1956 an Indian expedition led by N.D. Jayal, in 1969 led by C.S. Nogyal and in 1970 by H.V. Bahuguna, failed to climb this peak reaching high on Cloud Peak or Saser IV. Both Roberts’ and Jayal’s teams climbed the nearby ‘Look-Out Peak’. The first ascent of Saser Kangri was made by an Indian team led by Joginder Singh in 1973 approaching from the Shyok valley in the east. An Indian Army team led by Col Jagjit Singh made the second ascent of this peak.
An Indo-Japanese expedition led by Hukam Singh climbed the west peak of Saser Kangri II (7518 m) in 1985. This expedition approached from the Nubra valley and climbed the northwest ridge over a col.
All the other groups in this Muztagh have not been visited and await exploration.
A Philistine may question the validity of all these ‘explorations’. With the Central Asia Trade Route passing through these areas many local traders have known the terrain for years. Prof G. Dainelli puts the Eastern Karakoram explorations in the correct perspective:
Someone might philosophize on the illusion we live in, we who believe we are exploring and discovering that which other men, instead, have known before us, perhaps for centuries. But we explore and discover for the sake of general knowledge and of science, and we cannot feel diminished if only in this sense be understood the discovery of the Yarkand source from the Rimo, made sixteen years ago, or the so-called first crossing of the col between Rimo and Siachen.
For geography and for science, as well as for alpinism, it has certainly been the first crossing.*
History of Siachen Muztagh (1821-1992)
Year Expedition Bibliography
reference no.
1821 W. Moorcroft passed near the snout and reported its 2
existence.
1835 G.T. Vigne approached it from the west over Bilafond 3
la but never guessed its existence.
1848 Henry Strachey discovered the existence of Siachen glacier 4
and ascended it for two miles.
1848 Dr. T. Thompson visited the snout. 5
1949-50 F. Drew approached the glacier. 6
1862 E.C. Ryall—Survey of India, —
sketched the lower part and ascribed
it a length of only 16 miles.
1889 Sir F. Younghusband reached Turkestan 7
la from north and looked down on the glacier.
1907 Sir Sidney Burrard published a map 14
on Himalaya. It did not include
Siachen though he mentioned the
possibility of a large glacier.
1908 Dr. Arthur Neve and D.G. Oliver 10
reached the snout and explored GJ 38
Mamostong Kangri.
1909 Dr. Tom Longstaff, Dr Arthur Neve 8
and Lt A.M. Slingsby, later joined by
Capt D.G. Oliver, first came over
Bilafond la and later over the Sia-
chen snout to establish the length of
the Siachen glacier and exact loca-
tion of various passes.
1911-12 The Workman Expedition came from 9
west, named many peaks and passes
and climbed a few peaks. Grant Peterkin surveyed the glacier thoroughly.
1911 V.D.B. Collins and C.S. McInnes of 10
Survey of India surveyed Teram
Kangri and other peaks.
1913-14 Sir Filippo De Filippi surveyed Rimo 13 glacier system and published a map.
Year Expedition Bibliography
reference no.
1929 Dr Ph.C. Visser, Netherlands expedi- HJ, III, p. 13
tion, surveyed Terong valleys and
crossed the snout to Gyong la.
1929 Duke of Spoleto expedition reached HJ, III, p. 102
Indira Col from the north and dis-
covered Staghar and Singhi glaciers.
1930 G. Dainelli, Italian expedition, stay- 12
ed two months at Teram Shehr junc-
tion and crossed Col Italia.
1934 G.O. Dyhrenfurth, International expedi- HJ, VII, p. 142
tion, made first ascent of Sia Kangri.
1935 British Expedition led by J. Waller HJ, VIII, p. 14 with John Hunt attempted Saltoro Kangri.
1939 Lt Peter Young visited Gyong la on shikar. 16
1956 Austrian expedition led by F. Mora- HJ, XX, p. 27
vec climbed Sia Kangri West.
1957 Imperial College British expedition HJ, XXI, p. 33
led by Eric Shipton climbed Tawiz
and visited passes.
1961 Austrian expedition led by E. HJ, XXIII, p. 47
Waschak made first ascent of Ghent.
1962 Japanese-Pakistan expedition led by HJ, XXV, p. 143
- Shidei made first ascent of Saltoro Kangri I.
1974 Japanese expedition led by T. Tanaka HCNL, 31, p. 4
attempted Sherpi Kangri II via S ridge.
1974 Austrian expedition led by W. Stefan HCNL, 31, p. 5
climbed Sia Kangri from SW. AAJ, 49
1974 Japanese expedition led by G. Iwat- HCNL, 31, p. 4
subo approached K12 from the west.
Two members summited but died on
the return without any trace.
1975 British expedition led by D. Alcock
attempted Sherpi Kangri.
1975 Japanese expedition led by Y. Yama- HCNL, 31, p. 16
moto climbed K12 by the same route
to search for the missing summiters.
The search failed.
Year Expedition Bibliography
reference no.
1975 Japanese expedition led by H. Kata- HCNL, 31, p. 17
yama made first ascents of Teram
Kangri I and II, coming over Bilafond la
1975 Japanese expeditions led by S. Yama- HCNL, 31, p. 17
moto attempted Saltoro Kangri I.
1976 Japanese expedition made first ascent H.J., XXXV,
of Sherpi Kangri, led by H. Hirai. p. 254
1976 Japanese expedition led by H. Misawa HCNL, 32, p. 20
made the first ascent of Apsarasas I.
1976 Japanese expedition led by H. Sato HCNL, 32, p. 19
came over Bilafond la crossed Tur-
kestan la and made the first ascent of
Singhi Kangri from north.
1976 An Austrian expedition led by Gun- HCNL, 32, p. 19
ther Schutz came over Bilafond la
and attempted Saltoro Kangri II.
1977 Austrian expedition climbed Ghent HCNL, 32, p. 34
NE from Kondus glacier.
1978 Indian Army expedition led by Col HJ, 37, p. 107
- Kumar approached from Nubra
and climbed Teram Kangri II.
1978 Japanese expedition led by H. Koba- HCNL, 33, p. 7
yashi climbed Ghent NE from the
Kondus glacier.
1979 Japanese expedition led by S. Hanada HCNL, 33, p. 23
came over Bilafond la and made first
ascent of Teram Kangri III.
1979 Japanese expedition led by R. Haya- HCNL 33, p. 24
shibara climbed Sia Kangri from
Conway Saddle, descended S face to
Siachen glacier and trekked out via
Bilafond la.
1980 Indian Army expedition led by Brig HJ, 38, p. 124
K.N. Thandani climbed Apsarasas I.
1980 West German team led by B. Scher- HCNL, 34, p. 25
zer climbed Ghent.
1980 An American team led by Galen
Year Expedition Bibliography
reference no.
Rowell traversed the Siachen glacier
during their Karakoram Ski Tra-
verse of major glaciers.
1981 Dutch expedition attempted Saltoro HCNL, 36, p. 8
Kangri II from the west.
1981 Indian Army expedition led by Col HJ, 39, p. 104
Kumar came via Nubra, climbed Sal-
toro, Kangri II, Sia Kangri I, reached
Indira Col, Sia la, Turkestan la and
PK 36 glacier pass.
1983 Trekking parties crossed over Bila-
fond la from the west.
1984 Indian Army expedition led by Col HJ, 41, p. 90
Prem Chand climbed K12 from Sia-
chen glacier traversing from the west.
1985 Indo-British expedition led by Harish HJ, 42, p. 68
Kapadia, explored and climbed peaks
in Terong group. They approached
from Siachen, climbed Rimo III and
attempted Rimo I.
1986 Sia Kangri was climbed by HJ, 43, p. 80
the Indo-American expedition led by HCNL. 40, p. 21
Maj. K.V. Cherian and Leo Lebon. Seven
Indians reached the summit and Americans
reached Indira Col.
1988 Rimo I first ascent by HJ, 45, p. 104
the Indo-Japanese team led by HCNL, 42, p. 35
Hukum Singh and Yoshio Ogata. They approa-
ched from the Terong valley and Ibex Col.
1988 Apsarasas I was climbed by the HCNL, 42, p. 35
Indian Army Team.
1989 Rimo II first ascent, and HJ, 46, p. 90
Rimo IV second ascent. HJ, 47, p. 108
were climbed by an Indo-British team HCNL, 43, p. 33
led by Sonam Palzor and Doug Scott. They
approached from the Terong glacier.
1992 An Indian army team led by Col.
M.S. Gill climbed Teram Kangri I.
History of Rimo Muztagh (1984-1992)
Southern and eastern approaches before and across Saser la.
There were no climbers here before 1984 though there were many travellers.
1984 Rimo IV (7169 m), first ascent by Indian HCNL 38, p. 17
Army Sappers team led by Capt K. S.
Sooch. They climbed six other peaks around
Central and South Rimo glaciers.
1984 Mamostong Kangri (7516 m), first ascent HJ 41, p. 93
by the Indo-Japanese team led by
Col Balwant Sandhu and Yoshio Ogata. They HCNL 38, p. 17.
approached via Mamostong glacier, across
Mamostong col (5885 m) to Thangman glacier
and climbed the east ridge.
1986 Rimo I (7383 m) was attempted from HCNL 40, p. 21
the eastern approaches by an See book
Indo-Australian-New Zealand team led RIMO (Peter
by Col Prem Chand and Terry Ryan. Hillary)
1988 Mamostong Kangri I (7516 m) was climbed HJ 46, p. 70
by Ladakh Scouts team led by Major A. HCNL 42, 35
- Sethi. They approached the east ridge
from the Thangman glacier direct.
1989 Mamostong Kangri (7516 m), third ascent HJ 46, p. 195
by the Indian Army Sappers team HCNL 43, p. 32
led by Major M.P. Yadav (via the route
of first ascent).
1989 An Indian team led by Harish Kapadia HJ 46, p. 76
climbed five peaks in the HCNL 43, p. 34
Aq Tash glacier and the Chong Kumdan
glacier.
1990 Mamostong Kangri (7516 m) climbed by HCNL 45, p. 6
the Border Security Force team led by
S.C. Negi. They also climbed peak 6448 m.
1991 An Indo-German team led by Col I.S. HCNL 45, p. 24
Bhatia climbed unnamed peaks 6010 m and
6335 m near Saser la.
1991 Chong Kumdan I (7071 m), first ascent HJ 48, p. 97
by the Indo-British team led by HCNL 45, p. 23
Harish Kapadia and Dave Wilkinson. They
climbed 9 other peaks and explored Central
and North Kumdan glaciers.
1992 Mamostong Kangri (7516 m) was
climbed by an Indian ladies team
led by Ms Bachendri Pal
REFERENCES
- Two Summers in the Ice-Wilds of Eastern Karakoram by Fanny B. Workman, pp. 161-62.
- Abode of Snow by Kenneth Mason, pp. 242, 141, 139, 177.
- ‘The Italian Expedition to Karakoram 1929’, H.J., Vol. III, p. 102.
- Himalaya, Karakoram and East Turkistan 1913-14 by Filippo De Filippi.
- A Sketch of the Geography and Geology of Himalaya Mountains and Tibet 1907 by Sir Sidney Burrard.
- Himalayan Holiday by Peter Young.
- ‘First Ascent of Mamostong Kangri (7516 m)’ by Col Balwant S. Sandhu, H.J., Vol. 41, p. 93.