BHUTAN DIARY

2004

Tiger’s nest

We climbed to Tiger’s Nest monastery near  Paro. Then we drove to Thimphu, 55 km of winding narrow road and totally dusty and barren valley. This  place Thimphu, is like a total Indian town, 99% Indian goods in shops, crowded streets and pollution! So we are back home.

The  early exploration of Bhutan peaks

Claude White was appointed as Political Officer here in 1910s. He was benevolent dictator as he  is known, travelled a lot, studied a lot. cared for people and bullied the officials! His book SIKKIM AND BHUTAN is still a classic as he was a painter and sketched many aspects of Bhutan.

Brig (or Col.) Berry was next and he was posted here. He with the small British army walked around and brought back knowledge of northern mountains. He did contribute articles in the older Himalayan Journals  and his son, Steve Berry, visited all the places of his exploration in 1970s and wrote a book THE DRAGON KINGDOM. In fact Steve is a travel agent and he used his father’s travel as excuse to get permission from the King to follow in all those closed areas early. Today he is a largest tour operator here sending groups from UK under HIMALAYAN KINGDOM company of his.

Then many came here and one of the classic book was by Nari Rustomji, who followed a Political Agent with Sikkim, and wrote a book DRAGON KINGDOM IN CRISIS. This was the first book after 1947 and this Parsi from Mumbai (I met him a few times) criticised the Indian Govt for treating Bhutan badly!

Another good book  is Dr Peter Steele of Everest fame trekked to remote areas with 2 kids, sitting on a horse! His travels TWO AND TWO HALVES TO BHUTAN is fun to read. There are not many books after this and still a lot to be written for Bhutan. A good challenge for me as the Indian angle is very much ignored.

HISTORY

Bhutan was a closed kingdom in times of father of the present King (King is 47 years now with 4 wives)> That early King had closed doors to all specially to keep the Assamese traders entering and keeping culture alive. But there was also contact with the Chinese and that border they could not keep it closed for sure as it was mountainous. With the  ‘Younghusband Expedition’ Bhutan was in trouble. As the expedition passed through Chumbi valley, immediate west of Chomolahri peak, many Tibetans came running into Bhutan and settled here permanently. That changed things here a lot. Then after the opening of Nepal many Nepalese came to Bhutan and settled in foothills and there were violent clashes as Bhutanese tried to push them out and there was retaliation from Nepal to Bhutanese minority in Nepal too.

The British had already established a presence here and there was much development projects handled by Indian officials. Indo-Bhutanese Treaty of Friendship and co-operation was signed in 1949 which gave full access to Indians to Bhutan and vice versa.

Then came 1962 Indo-China war that changed everything for Bhutan.  Dalai Lama wanted to enter from Bhutan from Tibet when running from the Chinese in 1959 but the King refused as he was naturally scared of the Chinese army coming to the Kingdom. (Dalai Lama has since not visited Bhutan ever- even to keep the Chinese happy!) It was wise decision as Chinese may have taken over entire Bhutan for good,  — taking that as ruse. So Dalai Lama entered from far eastern corner of Bhutan-Arunachal Border at Khinzemane and area held by India but within few kilometres of Bhutan borders. Chinese did take this with much offence and the King was pressurised to allow the Chinese troops from Bhutan to invade India. He had to refuse.

During the war Indian troops were on the Thagla Ridge which Bhutan claimed as theirs and protested mildly. Many injured and running Indian soldiers came down to safety and plains through Bhutan.

In 1963 Nehru visited Bhutan and now the fearful King (of the Chinese) signed a comprehensive treaty with India and almost everything here since then is linked to India, India also pours in lots of money, army, road constructions and King almost cannot do much political changes without Indian approval. His defence and Foreign affairs are controlled by India, Bhutan has only 15,000 army! He is wise and does not irritate Delhi. In 1971 when Bangla Desh was created at Indian’s calling, Bhutan a member of the UN, was first to recognise it as new country (US was last to do so).

Only once the King faltered. When Mrs Gandhi was stoutly defeated in elections and Morarji Desai took over, with King of Nepal and he organised a Press conference in Taj Hotel in Mumbai where they both demanded that old treaties should be scrapped and new ones negotiated. Govt did nothing.

Then in one year Mrs Gandhi was back in power in Feb. She refused to sign the Finance Bill for Bhutan and as per Indian rules all un-utilised money lapses on 31st March. King visited Delhi in late March as she refused to meet any of his Ministers! She refused to meet the King also and suggested that he should go to same place (Taj in Mumbai!) and announce that everything is fine with all the treaties and he respects the Indian Govt! He did so and the finance bill was signed on 29th March, money transferred and Bhutan survived! Since then King or Govt of Bhutan has played all along with Govt of India.

The last politically sensitive matter dealt was in 2000-2003. Many Bodo and ULFA militants of Assam had camps in lower eastern Bhutan and they operated from there. Indian army did not enter their territories to flush them out. Much pressure was put on Bhutan to do so on their own. King pleaded  against bloodshed, threat to him and his people and he did not want to be in militancy. But finally he had to agree, appeal were made to militants to give up. Finally as they here King led a Brigade – their only Brigade — to attack the camps. ULFA fled and as they came south  to Assam,  Indian Army killed most of them. It is believed that Indian army had supplied lots of material, ammunition and man power in Bhutanese uniforms (Gorkhas!) to finish the job. Reminds one of Chinese invited by the Tibetans to fight and ‘guest’ who stayed on in Tibet!

Today most things is Indian here and all projects, money and influence is Indian. Rightly so as without India and Indian goods they have nothing- not a pin or fresh vegetables even! Bhutan grows only chillies of many varieties.

THIMPHU

Today in Thimphu went to usual “points”. High point to see valley, a big chorten quite new, a nunnery under repair and generally the town. We have seen the Dzong the fort from distance but in evening we will go in.

Today we visited the Fort -Dzong- seat of Govt. had a lot of chance to discuss with one Rajiv Chavda who is living here for 24 years. A Gujurati who came as an architect from UN and have stayed on.

One new thing was institution of religious head called Je  Khenpo .As we know in Tibet Potala represents religious as well as political power and common head is Dalai lama. That had created a conflict as not the best person may rule.

So in Bhutan in last 100 years there have bifurcated the institutions. KING is a hereditary monarchy while head Lama is religious head called Je  Khenpo. But here too there were assassinations and overthrow of each other. But now with new age in last 50 years, specially with support of India the King has become all powerful and specially as they had some excellent Kings. Thus that institution has become powerful enough to keep religious head in check. They bless the King and has no other political say.

Indian army is here in full presence and all Chinese borders are manned by Indian and Bhutanese joint armies. This is since 1962 onwards.

BHUTAN MOUNTAINEERING

The earliest climbers here was Spencer-Chapman. He had seen the peak Chomolahri (7500 m) on border of Bhutan and Chumbi valley of Tibet. The best pictures were brought back by Younghusband expedition (again that!). So Chapman attempted the peak from the Chumbi valley in the western part  of Bhutan and reached quite high. But he could not make it. Then for decades the peak was left alone.

In 1970 Indo-Bhutan armies team, led by Col. N Kumar attempted the peak. 2 Bhutanese and 2 Indian officers including Col. Prem Chand reached the summit. The second attempt was mounted 2 days later and 2 Indian officers were seen near the summit- never to be seen again. It was at first believed that Chinese ha shot them. But later Chinese co-operated in trying to locate their bodies on the Chumbi side. No trace.

Then after few years Junko Tabie the Japanese lady who climbed Everest later, came to climb Masagang the highest peak of Bhutan on the border of Tibet. She failed narrowly but based on her experience a strong Japanese team reached the summit next year.

Third peak to climbed was Jitchu Drake and lovely pinnacle like peak again on the border. were in love and a major affair was on. The expedition by Sharavathi Prabhu and Doug Scott with my friend Victor Saunders ran into much problems.. After a valiant attempt, Victor led the team to the summit and the climb became rather famous with many articles.

After this  Govt of Bhutan closed peaks for climbing and in last 15 years there have not been any major expeditions. Thus a large area remains for climbers when things are opened.

PUNAKHA

We drove 60 km from Thimphu and road was winding but some of the best forest one can see en route. Crosses Dhochu la (3150 m) Pass  and descended to the Wangdi Phodang valley with a large river flowing in between. Then drove 17 km in different direction to reach Punakha where a major Dzong – Fort is standing in between 2 rivers called _ Male and Female.

It is a huge and intricate fort one of the best in Bhutan. There are several chapels and each beautifully decorated and preserved. As there was no cultural revolution and Tibetan attacks all things here is well preserved and also well maintained.

One Guru Zhabdrung Ngwang Namgyal was in Ralung Monastery south of Lhasa. The local King did not like him and he was to be executed. He ran to Bhutan with a rare golden statute of Buddha. After years Tibetan discovered the loss and attacked Bhutan several times. The guru built this fort and hid the statue. When a large Tibetan force attacked, he reasoned that this statue is cause of all troubles, so he made a duplicate. When the Tibetans came in front of them he threw the replica in the river. Tibetans called him and all Bhutanese mad and went back and never attacked again for anything.

The original statute is still here. It can be seen only  by the King or chief Lama once a year.

Bhutanese Proverb

AGE APPEARS BEST IN FOUR THINGS

Old Wood to Burn

Old Wine to Drink

Old friends to Trust

Old Authors to read

BUMTHANG

We travelled 200 km east to Central Bhutan and are at a beautiful valley called Bumthang. En route we passed Trongsa a fort and here we are at Jakar, staying in a farm house with a villager but well done. They seem to be developing areas well.

But forest– what a forest! Except Arunachal Pradesh, where it is not destroyed by the army, the forest is unbelievably virgin! Seen to be believed and enjoyed.

We visited several places and there are several legends– quite similar to many Himalayan legends here.

1. Mo Bar: The Burning Lake: A lama, to find treasure dipped in this lake with a lighted lamp and came out with treasure and the Lamp burning intact.

2. Rukuji is berry and a lama who acted as mad man to popularise religion travelled and lost berries at three places and established three huge Chortens all ending with Ruku ji.
3. Trongsa Penelop: The father of first King saw a white bird flying to Central Bhutan. So he followed here, and a prophecy told him that he will be the King. He employed himself with a local chieftain and built this huge Trongsa Fort. When Chieftain retired he was given charge for of the fort for 5 years as Chieftain’s child was too young. After 5 years he refused to handover and civil war ensued. The old Chieftain’s child was then made Penelop (one step before King) at Jakar- Bumthang.
4. The King was made Trongsa Penelop and when he died his son became the first King of Bhutan. Thus any Crown Prince is given title of Trongsa Penelop and he then becomes a King naturally.  Yesterday the present Crown Prince was made so.

4. The southern Bhutan, in plains are called Duars: flat lands. There are major three Duars:- Charduar, Alipur Duar and Buxa Duar. The British in early 19th Century knew importance of these Tea growing area and occupied it. Bhutan King attacked but was repulsed. Final the  “Sinchula Treaty” was signed which gave these areas, including Darjeeling and Kalimpong to the British and now to India. The compensation was Rs 10,000 per year a later raised at Punakha Treaty to Rs 50,000. Today it amounts to Crore and Indian Govt pays and adjusts against the grants given. This is  the only major historical story I had read and reconfirmed.

Morning we walked to monastery of Shedung. In one of the three monasteries we had visited a camera bag was forgotten and taken away by a lama kid. I made a big fuss and took a policeman with me to the monastery. The bag was returned. It is little sad that winds of civilisation are blowing here and in few years like in Nepal and in India these things will happen. But I hope it is delayed as much.

Early afternoon was to visit a factory making textiles. I did not fancy it much.

Now all that remains is to enjoy forests and remoteness of eastern Bhutan, and no ‘points’ to be visited. We will go for Lama dance festival tomorrow and could be very colourful and good to start with. But for a full day it may get always little routine.

On way back as we were driving we saw a red figure sitting on a rock above the river bed. It made a wonderful site and we stopped. Our all group started clicking and the lama did not look at us and continued meditation. I went near to him, he opened his eyes and I had never seen a calmer face and quieter eyes. He continued with prayers silently as we photographed him at close quarters and was not at all upset. As we left he waved us good bye!

Today the whole town is buzzing with tourists as the dance festival is to be held. The monastery here was built as one of the 1008 by a high lama in one night. This was destroyed by demons and they will not allow it to be rebuilt. So at midnight, this full moon night, the villagers dance naked and that’s how they cheated the demons who thought that something is wrong and went away being scared.  Many stories doing round.

TO THE EAST

After the festival at Bumthang which, we travelled across 2 passes, one of them the highest motor road in Bhutan. We missed the views but forest, again were great. Then we stayed at a small place called Mongar, a small bazar and above the valley- no internet but phones in plenty.

Today we drove for 3 hours only to reach Trashigang. It is the eastern most town in Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh is only about 1 hour away of trekking. Thus technically I have completed my entire journey across the Himalayan range (except 2 valleys in Nepal which are under Maoist trouble). Starting from Western most part of Ladakh across east till now here and having done Arunachal I have viewed entire Himalaya across from West to east. With next trip to Tsangpo gorge I will complete further. You can never end and all valleys north to south still remain– possibly for next life!

I was talking about advent of TV and modernity in Bhutan. They did admit that with these influences the life is changing – like ladies scantily dressed dancing at parties, couples living together without marriage, dress codes turning to western  and attitudes changing to cause HIV as a scare.   Young are also turning to India for work and some prostitution is also around. Compared to Nepal things are good but winds are blowing from all directions. Forests needs to be protected and they have declared 2nd June as Tree Planting day – It is King’s birthday. But at present they say there is no corruption except at a few levels, but this catches on and more roads are built then forests may be in danger. Bhutan also has highest birth rate 3.5, in the  world. So today’s population on 9 lacs may triple soon and that may cause major environment pressure soon.

AROUND EASTERN PARTS

We  have been to Rajlung monastery, 16 km from Trashigang, the easternmost point. This was further east and we reached within 10 km of the Indian borders. Covered more of the Himalaya! The monastery was wonderful and it was built by lamas from Mysore and had old connections with Ralung gompa near Shigatse. We were allowed to photograph inside and young Lamas were studying scriptures – least disturbed by us.

Then last we went to north –just about  about 10 km away from  Arunachal Pradesh- the point where I had stood a year ago!  It was a touching moment for me.

There was   KORA CHORTEN as they called it and holy where Arunachalis also come.

Last was GOMA CHORTEN.  There was  huge rock- signifying evil in mind. Guru Padmasambhava cut it with sword- you can see the mark. Then he meditated and his head mark can be seen- with meditation he conquered evil mind, but still the evil became a serpent. So he buried it under the evil mind itself- under the rock. So that’s how to conquer evilness in the  mind by burying it under itself.

Finally today we saw CHOKHOR DZONG. Here at Trongsa future king is made a Penelop. But as Trongsa Penelop were fighting, were evil and caused civil war, the name is changed to CHOKHOR PENELOP for future King. In fact to call someone as Trongsa Penelop is an insult!

Well with this our Bhutan is over except that we are travelling back.

SLAVES

Today I was talking about a strange thing in Bhutan. There were Nepalese settlers for almost 4 generations now here and they had settled in the foot hills where we are going tomorrow. They were slaves of Bhutan nobles till 1963 when the slavery was abolished and they were set free by father of the present King. I find it strange that till early sixties they were slaves! Today we find many Nepalese here, many speak Nepali but stigma of being a slave still remains, there are no intermarriages etc.

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BHUTAN 2004  DIARY

Date (2004)
Oct.19 Tuesday	Dep. Mumbai		By Jet to Kolkatta. Stayed in  poor  ‘Kings Crown Hotel.
Oct. 20 Wednesday	Paro (2100m)	Kiychu Resort	Flew to Paro by morning flight. Small aircraft and most of it came full from Bangkok. Met Tshewang Ringzin our guide and Chhimy our agent. Both look experienced. Stayed at Kiychu Resort, nice, open and comfortable.
Oct. 21 Thursday	PARO	Gele la (3988m) Paro Dzong	Morning visited Gele la (3988m) pass. Road of 37kms from Paro to top  leads down to “HA” district. Great view of Chomolahri group of peaks. Evening visit to Paro Dzong. A huge square building outside Paro. A huge monastery inside. Terrific woodwork inside. Built in 1647 and there use several huge Dzongs like this.
Oct. 22 Friday	THIMPU (2200m)	Drukyal Zhong Takstang Gompa in morning drive 55km to Thimpu or 65km	Morning drove to DRUKYAL ZHONG, old dilapidated fort. Then climbed to cafeteria at “TIGER’S NEST”. Returned to hotel and drove to Thimphu, looks typical Indian hill town, crowded, pollution, traffic and in valley. But only place with some infrastructure.
Oct. 23 Saturday	THIMPU (2200m)	Weekend Market Archery Match Nunnry Chorten Dzong Rajiv Chavda	Morning visits. Saw many things, life, people and Zong. With Mr. Chavda.-talkes about Social, King, changes from 1st king Nepalese 4 generations, Government,  of LAMA HEAD JE KHENPO. No political parties, opened up since 1998 Indian army on joint patrols all ………….
Oct. 24 Sunday	WANGDI Phodrang (1500m)	Wangdi to stay Punakha Dzong 60kms Wangdi 17kms to Punakha & back, 34 km return Crossed Dochu la 3150m en route 70kms	Drove to Wangdi on river. Stayed in “Dragon’s Nest”. Went to magnificent Punakha Dzong. Built between two rivers, solid structure. Guru Zhabdrung from Ralung monastery in Tibet ran to shelter here as king was to kill him. He brought small precious statue with him. So Tibetans invaded to take the statue, kept in this Dzong. Guru made a duplicate statue and in front of Tibetan he threw it in the river, ending the feud. Real statue is still here, seen only by the King and Ja Khenope. “GURU ZHABRUNG NGWANG NAMGYAL”

 

Oct. 25 Monday

Bumthang (Jakar) (2400m)

1. Wangdu to Trongza 128km Jakar     68km Bumthang 1. Pele la Pass (3390m) 2.  Yotong la Pass (3425m) Chindi ji Chorten 197kms

Drove from 7 a.m. to cross pass Pele la (3390m) and descended to Trongsa for lunch. Then climbed to second pass Yotong la Pass (3425m). Then long descent to Jakar. Wide valley, totally spread out village. Few resorts, but we stayed at Nolla Guest House, a typical farmhouse made of wood. Civil war of Bhutan : Doars War in ‘Duars’ Charduar, Alipur Duar and Buta Duar. 1.  Rukuji – berry stories Rukhji – Chindi ji and Tansu ji Lama Drukpa Kinley (mad Lama). As berries were stolen, he went to Paro. 2. Chindi ji Chorten, by defeating the last evil spirit, by lama-Schubi of Tibet. Chorten was built at same spot, same as Bodhanath. 3.  ‘Duars’ belonged to Bhutan, rich in tea. British invaded Duars in 18th century, defeated Trongsa Penelop, Jimi Nangyal. He shot British general, killed him. British attacked again, defeated Bhutanese, annexed Duars and Darjeeling. This was ‘Duars War’. After negotiation “Sinchula Treaty” signed, British to pay 10,000 as compensation in “Treaty of Punakha’. It was made 50,000 later. 4. Crown Prince is ‘Trongsa Penlop’ before he becomes king. Present Prince crowned at Trongsa on 31 Oct 2004. Father of 1st King, Jigme Namgyal at 15, he had vision of white bird flying from KURTEU (where king belongs) to Central Bhutan. Prophecy to be leader of country. He came to Trongsa Zong, joined as sweeper. Leader Trongsa Penlop as Shoki Dorje, he served him well. Dorje was old and resigned, he had a child, was small, so agreement with Jigme to rule till 5 years. He, Jigme refused to give up. Civil War between Jigme and son took place. All others intervened and made son, first “Jakar Penlop” as independent king. Jigme appointed his son, 1st King Ugyen Wangchulk and went to meditate. He was 1st ‘Trongsa Penlop’.  So all kings are appointed ‘Trongsa Penlop’ first and then become King.

 

Oct. 26 Tuesday	Jakar Bumthang	1.  Me-Bar – the Burning Lake 2.  Jakar Zhong 3.  Monastery Tamshing	Morning to a gorge where holy lama had dipped in with a lamp to find hold relic. He came up with relic and lamp still burning. Jakar Zong, more administrative fort. Tamshing Monastery – small old, holy but not much – 1000 Budhha small inside.
Oct. 27 Wednesday	Jakar Bumthang	1.  Trek to Shedung returned from Thanbi. 2.  Kurje Gompa	An easy day. Trekked towards Shedung and stopped at Thanbi. On return saw a lama meditating on river. A great view. Visited Kurje Monastery on way.
Oct. 28 Thursday	Jakar Bumthang	Jambay Lhakhang Festival	Full day free. Evening 7 p.m. went for dance and came back in half an hour. Most disappointing day !
Oct. 29 Friday	Jakar Bumthang	Mask Dance	Morning at mask dance. Then free.
Oct. 30 Saturday	Mongar (1500m)	Shertang la (3000m) Thrumsing la (3780m) 194 kms	A long 194kms drive through two passes. The highest pass in Bhutan is Thrumsing la. Reached Mongar, a small place and no facilities.
Oct. 31 Sunday	Trashigang (1700m)	Rangjung Monastery 90kms 32km return	A very comfortable and easy drive to a small, but beautiful place. Internet etc. available. Went to Rangjung Monastery, 16km. It is built by lamas from Mysore. Old affiliated with Tibet & Ralung Gorge.
Nov. 1 Monday	Trashigang (1700m)	Trashi Yangtse Goma Kora Chorten Kora 108 km return	Drove to Trashi-Yangtse – 16km from India Arunachal Pradesh. Visited Chorten Kora of Trashi Yangtse. On return Goma Kora of Padmasambhav where he meditated and killed a snake.
Nov. 2 Tuesday	Bumthang Via Mongar	Drive of 10 hours 284 kms	Direct drive
Nov. 3 Wednesday	Wangdi	Drive. Visit to Chokher Dzong at Trongsa 197kms	Story of Trongsa Penlop
Nov. 4 Thursday	Thimphu	Drive of 2 hours 70 kms
Nov. 5 Friday	Phuntsolling	Drive to border via Chumzom 172kms	Long drive

 

Nov. 6 Saturday

Bagdogra Via Siliguri Fly to Kolkatta and Mumbai

170 kms

Drive and flights

 

Details : Roads  in Bhutan

KM 65	Paro – Thimphu	HOURS 1.5 hrs
70	Thimphu – Wangdi Phodrang	3 hrs
13	Wangdi – Punakha	1 hrs
129	Wangdi – Trongsa	5 hrs
68	Trongsa – Jakar Bumthang	8 hrs
193	Bumthang, Mongar	7 hrs
76	Mongar – Lhuntse	3 hrs
90	Mongar – Trashigang	4 hrs
52	Trashigang, Chorten Kora (Trashi Yangtse)	2 hrs
180	Trashigang – Samdrup Jonkhen	6 hrs
110	Samdrup – Guwahati	3 hrs
380	Samdrup – Phuntsoling	10 hrs
179	Thimphu – Phuntsoling	6 hrs
170	Phuntsoling – Bagdogra	4 hrs

 

Direct Road

65	Paro – Thimphu
60	Thimphu – Wangdi
128	Wangdi – Trongsa
68	Trongsa – Jakar – Bumthang
194	Jakar – Mongar
90	Mongar – Trashigang
177	Trashigang – Samdrup Jonkhar

OTHER ROADS

65 kms	Thimpu
60 kms	Wangdi
17 kms	Punkhar – off road. Return 34 kms
128 kms	Wangdi – Trongsa via Pele la
29 kms	Trongsa – Yotongla Pass
39 kms	Yotongla la – Jakar
194 kms	Jakar to Mongar
	Jakar – URA                          49 kms
	URA – Thrumsing la              35 kms
	La – Sensar                           21 kms
	Sengor – Namling                  21 kms
	Namling – Mongar                 67 kms
90 kms	Mongar – Trashigang Trashigang – Ranglung 16 kms
54 kms	Trashigang – Goma Chorten                    } Trashi Yangtse – Chorten Kora                } 54 kms (9 km to Chozam bridge – 45 km ahead)
31 kms	Thimphu – Chunzom
79 kms	Chunzom – bifurcation to Ha.
24 kms	Chunzom Paro
141 kms	Chunzom – Phuntosolling
552 kms	Thimphu – Trashigang, East (West), high
244 kms	Trongsa – Gelphu
200 kms	Thimphu – Strongsa
352 kms	Trongsa – Tashigang
68 kms	Trongsa – Jakar
128 kms	Wangdi – Trongsa
194 kms	Jakar – Mongar
90 kms	Mongar – Trashigang